While I was on a roll making clothes for my girl’s American Girl dolls, I also made some t-shirts. I made two different t-shirts and wanted to share my experience and tips with you.
Can you see the differences between the two shirts pictured above. The simplicity pattern has more substantial sleeves as well as interfacing near the collar. The Liberty Jane t-shirt looks more form fitting (that sounds weird to write about a doll t-shirt) and narrower hems, which look a little more t-shirt like to me.
Regardless of the differences in appearance, one of these t-shirts was much easier to make and work with, even if it took a little more time. Although I am not actually sure it did take more time. The Simplicity pattern, with the interfacing, just felt so much easier to work with . The jersey knit was challenging to work with on the Liberty Jane t-shirt pattern. It just had me sew up the small hem. It was so frustrating to work with the jersey material and try to get it to stay so I could sew it. With the Simplicity pattern the most difficult part, the neckline, had the interfacing. It made it sooooo much easier to sew it and get a ‘professional look.’ It does change the look of the t-shirt from a casual t-shirt to perhaps a dressier t-shirt (again weird to write about doll clothes, but I will continue on). I feel like the larger sleeves on the Simplicity pattern made it easier to get them to come out even and look right versus on the Liberty Jane t-shirt which has small sleeves. Of course those smaller sleeves do look more trendy and ‘current,’ hence it’s name as the Liberty Jane Trendy t-shirt.
Close up of the different sleeves.
Looking at the back of the shirts, there is a problem. The Liberty Jane t-shirt uses a piece of Velcro along the full opening in the back while the Simplicity t-shirt said to sew the shirt 1/2 way and use Velcro only at the top. As you can see from the pictures, this method does not work for my Pumpkin. The t-shirt had this rip in it after only 1 day. I think she only put it on and off once or twice. It was just too hard for her to do it carefully and if you have kids, you know that finicky things don’t last long. The full Velcro just works so much better and easier for kids. That must be why the Official American Girl items like this all use a full Velcro back opening!
So what’s a girl to do? I think when I make t-shirts again, I will probably make the Simplicity shirt again. I think I like the look of the Liberty Jane t-shirt a little better, but I just found it so much more frustrating. I think when I make shirts again, I will meld the two patterns together. I will use the interfacing at the neckline(Simplicity). I will use Velcro for the complete opening in the back(Liberty Jane). I think to make the Simplicity t-shirt look a little more like I prefer, I would make it a little longer and a little more narrow through the waist. I might even try to make the sleeves a little smaller, but that intimidates me a little, so maybe not. I guess those are quite a few changes, but that is how we get what we like, right? I think of that as one of the points of making things myself, besides the huge savings!
Here is a link to the Liberty Jane Trendy T-shirt pattern, which is free, and to Amazon for the Simplicity Sewing Pattern 2296
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.If you make or have made any doll t-shirts, please leave a comment with other tips or patterns that work really well. I would love to hear all about it for my future sewing endeavors.
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More American Girl Doll Fun:
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I’ve been on a roll with AG clothes this spring too. Your post is sooo helpful in comparing the two patterns. I usually end up melding two or more patterns together, too. I compromised on the velcro full length and use smaller pieces spaced a bit apart. Makes it easier for the child to match when closing and it opens easier with less strain on the fabric if the child gets impatient — at least, I think so.
I’m so glad to see this! My 8 yr old granddaughter is learning to sew and wants to spend some time making AG clothes this summer. Thank you for sharing.
How smart of you to make these! Super cute 🙂
Lina @ fancy frugal life
Thank you for the honest and realistic pattern review and for the link to a free pattern (My favourite kind of pattern!)
I had thought of using smaller pieces of velcro space out as well. My girls really disliked the idea. I’m OK with that as it seems easier to me to sew one long piece on rather than 4 or 5 smaller pieces, but if I sew a lot more, I may change to save a little bit of money.
I hadn’t thought of the idea of less strain on the fabric with the smaller pieces….hmmm, good thought.
In case you haven’t seen my other posts on sewing AG clothes, I would highly recommend this one:
https://www.realcoake.blogspot.com/2012/03/sewing-american-girl-reversible-wrap.html
This wrap skirt would be a GREAT sewing project for a 1st project. It was really easy and I bet she would enjoy it and the feeling of accomplishment at making it.
Hope it goes great for you both, whatever you make! Enjoy!
Thanks!
Awesome job! Thanks for Linking up at Show Me What You Got Tuesday’s @ ODH https://ourdelightfulhome.blogspot.com/2012/04/show-me-what-you-got-linky-party-9.html
Mrs. Delightfulwww.ourdelightfulhome.blogspot.com
I can definitely see how using Velcro down the back of the shirt would hold up better. My girls change their dolls clothes nine million times a day and the half closure would have been in shreds! Thanks so much for the tips!
Take care,
Trish
Yes, I think the Velcro down the back holds up better. I love your description of how many times they change the clothes…sounds like my house! Obviously in my house the 1/2 closure only held up for a few changes…boo! All that work…Oh well, lessons learned, right?!
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I use Adult Tshirts for the fabric and use the hems for the hems for the sleeves and T you can see it on my blog. I hope that helps… and I use a full piece of velcro but I cut it in half the long ways…
I’ve only sewn for Cabbage Patch dolls, but the same tips would apply. Thanks so much for sharing. I’d definitely go with the full velcro opening. The t-shirts look great! Someone is lucky to have you sew these outfits for them!
I still prefer the Liberty Jane t-shirt, and when I last made some with jersey knit, which was super slippery and stretchy, I serged the edges and did not double fold the hems. That only worked when I used a cotton knit that wasn’t slippery or super stretchy. You might consider making your own interfacing for the LJ t-shirt, and sleeves can always be lengthened!
We should chat this summer…keep up the good work!
I’ve made the Liberty Jane shirt a bizillion times. I also like to use t-shirts that are already made and upcycle them. I like using the hems for both the bottom, and the sleeves. The fabrics are usually a bit thicker, and you can probably find things in your own closet to work with.
I also cut the velcro the long way and use it along the entire back. It holds up well, even with lots of play.
And after you’ve made a few, the necklines and hems always get better. In the end, if they’re just for your girls to play with, they probably won’t mind the occasional wonky neckline or uneven sleeve. Mine don’t!
I think you are right about them not minding the occasional wonky neckline, etc. I agree with the velcro being cut the long way and using it along the entire back. It works really well.
Since this post was published we have gotten rid of the Simplicity shirt. It just didn’t hold up with the velcro done only half way. Sad, but fine as I learned things from it.
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I have used both of these patterns with success. I think fabric is the really essential componenet here: You will generally find cotton interlock knits and cheaper jersey knits. They are NOT made in the same way. jersey is alwas thinner, unfriendly to sew & has poor stretch recovery. This means that once it get stretches out of shape, it doesn’t ‘bounce back’ well. If you can’t tell which is which, stretch the edge gently, jersey will curl along the edge to the right side. Interlock does not curl, has a more structured feel and will be easier to sew! I never use my serger on tshirts, it stretches the fabric out and is not necessary because knit fabrics don’t ravel.Set your machine for the narrowest zigzag stitch is makes, on my machine it’s marked .5. No worries: it will look like straight stitch, but have a bit more stretch built in. I like the Simplicity tshirt pattern to make classic short sleeve sweaters. You can often find fine guage ladies sweaters with narrow bound hems and sleeve hems that look awesome for the dolls. cut your pieces out using the finished hem edges as others suggest. The facing for the neckline works perfectly. pairs great with cute skirts. I love the puffed sleeve on one of the Liberty Jane tshirt patterns but my go-to tshirt pattern is one of my own design, I started with a fitted tank and drew an extended ‘cap’ type sleeve on. very simple, and quick to stitch! Plus: agree with all of you, full length velcro is the only way to go. those little pieces are murder to stitch on anyway!
I will have to learn your tip about how to check the fabric because I am sure you right that it makes a big difference.
Thanks for all your great tips! I will try some in the near future as I plan to do a bit more of this sewing sometime this year again.
Ladies, also most sewing machines have knit stitches the strait stitch has a little jag to it and the zigzag is the 3 step zigzag. Kate
Thanks for the tip.
KC
I did the Liberty Jane shirt a while back and I didn’t think it turned out very good and it certainly wasn’t cute. I thought the jersey was hard to work with. My daughter doesn’t play with it much!
Well that sounds like it was a bust for you. Too bad, how frustrating.
I used to hate sewing knit tshirts for dolls UNTIL I found the Scientific Seamstress tutorial on making doll tshirts. She gives step-by-step directions on how to use an incredible product called Seam-A-Seam… and it works GREAT ! I have adapted the Scientific Seamstress methods for every knit fabric doll clothes I make now … and what a difference it makes in the finished product. I’m certain using Scientific Seamstress techniques (like pre-hemming, etc…) with the LibertyJane free trendy T would make it so much easier to sew. Happy Sewing!
Karen
Thanks so much for the tip. I will have to look into that and see what it is and what it does. I just made these shirts again and made them using cotton fabric rather than jersey fabric and it was a lot easier.
Take care,
KC
I made a typo in my previous comment — the product should be STEAM-A-Seam 2. Works like a charm. I stock up when notions are on sale at Joanns!
Karen
I use SteamaSeam too! I love it for making t-shirts!!!! They turn out perfect every time!!!!!!
Thanks for the additional recommendation!
KC
Making the half-closure back more kid-friendly:
The half closure can look MUCH prettier and more finished than the Liberty pattern with just ONE teensy little change. Make a bar tack just ABOVE the end of the center back seam, effectively right at at the edge of the Velcro placement. It takes the strain of pulling and spreads it out, making it really unlikely to rip the seam.
With a sewing machine: Just as you finish stitching the second piece of Vecro in place, close the seam, decide exactly where you want the bar tack (just a few thread lines above the vertical seam is great, or you can go up to avoid embellishments). Set your stitch width to just narrower than the Velcro, stitch length to 0, and take six to twelve stitches. SLOWLY. It can become a humpy, snarled mess if one’s foot slips! If you’ve got preset buttonhole stitches, it’s the bar tack at the short side of the buttonhole, even easier. Trim threads and add either a drop of Fray Check or clear acrylic nail polish to make the threads KEVLAR.
By hand stitching: EVEN EASIER– Sew on velcro with machine, snip ends, press closed. Tie a doubled knot at the end of the sewing thread, and just loop overhand stitches in the same spot 6-12 times. To tie off, slip the needle to the wrong side and knot through the threads of the bar tack. Finish with Fray-check or nail polish and -Done! It takes about a minute to hand-stitch these, which made them THE preventive measure to add to any purchased doll clothes!
What a great tip! Thank you so much for sharing it, Sarah!
KC
I love the Liberty Jane Patterns..to me they are very easy to work with. I don’t sew the backs on the t-shirt closed. Just Velcro about 3″ down and leave the rest open. I too, cut the velcro in half lengthwise. They fit the dolls so nicely. I use old t-shirts and add decorative irons or sew-ons, beads, They are so easy to do. I also serge the edges and then turn over to stitch..stops stretching. I stitch slowly. Turns out perfect!
I do them the same way now as well. I don’t like the half openings, they seem to break easily. I’ve heard that working with old t-shirts makes things a bit easier. I will have to try that some day.
KC
I would like to say thank you…for this blog and for all the helpful comment posts. I always said..”I can sew” which meant…thread the machine, push the peddal and fold over some fabric. LOL silly….I’m ACTUALLY learning to do…what i thought i could do for years. SO MUCH MORE than just making a seam. My daughter won’t admit it,but she’s tired of her AG’s crocheted clothing( i make) so i’ve ventured out. Looking forward to studying all the helpful hints on here to make her doll some REAL clothing. Thank you, thank you 🙂 I have my printer, ironing board and machine ready to go, ohhh and a Seam ripper LOL I think imma need it until i get more experience. Thank you all for being so generous with your talents and experiences in sewing. 🙂
Awww…you just totally put a smile on my face! I am so glad that my posting my experiences is so helpful to you! Hopefully you won’t need the seam ripper as much as you think you will. Though I know I use it a fair share…I think it is unavoidable.
I wish you well on your sewing journey. I’m also not sure what you have looked at on my blog, but I have tons of sewing posts and tons of AG sewing posts. So if you want more, I’ve got you covered. Just look in the right sidebar for ‘topics’ and either click on sewing or American Girl Doll. My favorite easy and cute thing for the AG Dolls is the reversible skirt. Super easy! LOVE IT!
Take care,
KC
I think you should read directions more fully before writing columns on sewing doll tee shirts. My first comment is the fact that there is considerable differences in knit fabrics, and LJ specifies that fact. Some knits stretch too much. Secondly, learn how to use your serger before sewing, adjustments need to be made in sewing knits. Thirdly, the sleeve was not cut on the proper grainline. Learn how to sew, before writing a column.
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with these patterns!
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with these patterns!
Thank you for posting your experience and comparisons of the Simplicity and Liberty Jane T-Shirt patterns. You did a great job trying to communicate the comparisons. I appreciate reading other doll clothes seamstresses’ experiences so I can learn from them or confirm I’m on the right track. Otherwise, it is difficult to figure how you can improve your future projects using the same or similar patterns.
After reading someone else’s online posting about facings being too fiddly for doll clothes, I have steered clear of them, choosing to: 1) follow the double-folded hems, as suggested in Liberty Jane’s Trendy T-Shirt pattern, 2) line bodice patterns, or 3) serge the fabric raw edge to use a single-fold hem for knit neck, sleeves, or shirt/skirt hemlines (as American Girl clothing is often constructed). I will reconsider using facings after reading your post. I’m glad you had success with facings.
I, too, like the waist fitting the Liberty Jane Trendy T-Shirt pattern provides. (The curve in the side seam achieves the same effect as Center Front and Center Back darts.) It helps make the t-shirt look more feminine, providing a more flattering, less boxy waistline.
On my first attempt making the Liberty Jane pattern, I followed the instructions, with the following changes, (which really helped):
–I used a KNIT/JERSEY NEEDLE in both my sewing machine AND serger (after several botched attempts resulting in skipped stitches or fabric pulled into and knotted in the feed dogs requiring lots of ripped stitches with my seam ripper.)
–For difficult knits, I additionally used paper or tear-away pellon between the fabric and feed dogs. (I found it wasn’t necessary if I used the proper jersey needle. Thus, I didn’t have to worry about the paper/Pellon dulling the sewing needle faster nor leaving teeny bits of torn paper/Pellon in the seamline or topstitching that required tedious attention and time in order to avoid snagging the material.) In the future, I will try using Steam-a-Seam 2, which has had remarkable online reviews.
–CENTERBACK:
**Extend the Libery Jane pattern’s Center Back “CUT LINE” by 5/8″. (5/8″ = 1/8″ ease, as pattern was snug in the hips for my doll PLUS 1/2″ self-facing. If additional ease is not needed, add only 1/2″ rather than 5/8″.) The original “CUT LINE” then becomes a “FOLDLINE,” with the increased 1/2″ becoming a self-facing. The Self-Facing was interfaced (see below) to strengthen the Velcro back closure so the fabric wouldn’t rip or tear with use. NOTE: I was worried this interfaced self-facing would be too bulky, but it has surprisingly worked fine with the thin- to medium-weight knits I’ve used so far.
**Cut two 1/2″ wide strips of medium- to heavy-weight iron-on interfacing/Pellon by the whole length of the Center Back, trimming off a smidge at the neckline and hem so the interfacing will extend 1/8″ past the neck and hem seams. This reduces unnecessary bulk, yet still catching it in the seams to secure.
**Iron the interfacing on the wrong side of the newly created fabric SELF-FACING, lining it up with the Center Back raw edge.
**Using a narrow seam, serge or zig zag along the Center Back raw edges, catching the edge of the interfacing. (I do not cut the fabric with the serger. I line the raw edge of the interfaced fabric right next to the serger’s cutting blade, not under it. This provides extra security to the interfacing, binding it to the fabric without reducing the seam allowance.)
**Press Center Back “SELF-FACING” under by 1/2″ along the interfacing edge at FOLDLINE. (The FOLDLINE is the original “cut line” plus 1/8″ if you modified the pattern for extra ease.)
**Using a rotary cutter (or scissors), cut 3/4″ wide Velcro into 3/8″ wide strips.
**After neckline and hem are finished, using a straight or zig zag stitch, attach Velcro to Center Back, aligning it about 1/16″ from FOLDLINE.
–NOTE: Serging/zig zagging typically isn’t necessary for raw edges on knit fabric but I found with the small 1/4″ seams used for doll clothes, while creating the neck, sleeve and shirt hems, the raw edges can easily create tiny “runs” into or past the 1/4″ seam line, depending on the fabric quality, how severe the neck or sleeve curve is, or how much you work with/handle those edges. Normally, these runs don’t show up or make a difference when using a 5/8″ seam allowance on an adult garment, but with those very small doll seam allowances, there just isn’t enough seam allowance to compensate when a teeny run starts. Thus, I choose to use a narrow serging along the knit raw edges, being careful I do not stretch the fabric, to avoid this situation.
–Liberty Jane’s double-fold method for hemming the neckline, sleeves and shirt hem was a bit fiddly for me. I thus hand-basted each hem twice before topstitching the hems, using a small metal measuring gauge to obtain a uniform hem or seam allowance. As a result, my finished topstitching looked much nicer and was less stressful for me as I wasn’t fiddling with trying to feed the feed the fabric with one hand while trying to hold the hem down with the other. It was well worth taking the extra time to hand-baste the first hem fold, then hand-baste the second hem fold before topstitching.
–In subsequent t-shirts I’ve made, I’ve edge-serged the raw edges of the necklines, sleeves and hem. I then hand-baste a hem of only 1/4″ for single-fold hems, rather than double-folded, to reduce the bulk. (This extra 1/4″ didn’t hurt the look of the neck or sleeve hem allowances.) For the shirt hem, after side seams are completed and I’ve edge-serged the raw edge, I press up the hem by 1/2″ and hand-baste halfway up from the fold. I then use a 2.5cm stretch twin needle to stitch the hem close to the raw edge. (This same twin needle method could be used on the sleeve and neckline if you modify the hem allowances to be proportionate to the stretch twin needle width and for that particular garment piece.)
Watching my granddaughters and how they dress their dolls, I agree that it is easier on the children, as well as the doll clothes, if you avoid using a partial seam for the Center Back Closure. If I’ve used interfacing and modified the pattern to have a self-facing, the closure is much more secure, thus needing no partial seam, as I’ve used Velcro, snaps or buttons all the way down the back. I’ve even used this self-facing method for very thin woven fabric for lightweight babydoll-style summer pajamas. Besides the interfacing, I used 3 layers of same fabric to create self-facing layers to better hold up to the use of snaps, rather than Velcro, which would have immediately ripped or torn the fragile fabric.
Thanks again for taking to time to review your experience with us. We all learn from each other.
Sincerely,
s.
I’m glad you liked reading my experience. Wow! It sounds like you have tons of experience and ideas on how to best make the shirts. Thanks for leaving all the details here so others can read them. 🙂